First of all Murby, I can’t help but take offense to the way you answered my question. It was kind of snarky. I have NO idea what your background is, and it was an honest question, because there’s so much info ‘out there’ and I wanted to know why you were making those suggestions.
My apologies.. I can come off snarky when I type.. not meant that way.
Next … YES … I would like to have an answer in ‘laymen’s terms’. Your offer to give such an explanation leads me to think you may have a background in this topic and help would be much appreciated to understand the best way to TRY to protect SOME electronic-type items that could use alternate power sources.
I’m an electrical engineer.. although truth be told I don’t do much of that kind of work… most of what I do is process engineering.. but ya, my education does provide me with quite a bit of insight into this kind of thing.
And finally …. I see that you already have offered some explanation a few posts later. The explanation is much appreciated. Given what you have written I see you have a faraday cage at home. (I searched through some of your older posts
to see what else you may have offered in other threads on this topic. I was also curious to see if you mentioned a background in this field or if it was just a well researched topic, on your behalf ) What type of faraday cage have you made that you are feeling comfortable relying on? -k
I have both a background in electrical subjects and have done a lot of research. Electromagnetic wave propagation is a field in itself, especially the high energy fast pulses.
Find yourself an open top metal 55 gallon drum.. the kind that have the removable lid and clamp ring. 55 gallon drums are made of 18 and 20 gauge steel and offer a great first layer protection against the E1 pulse that is generated by a Nuclear detonation in space. Wash the drum out with soap and water, dry it up really good and if its bare steel, paint it with an oil based paint for metal (inside and out but not the part where the drum and lid connect) .. (rustoleum is good)… Let it dry completely.. (usually takes a week in hot sun).. Then get some cardboard or other non-conductive sheeting material (at least 1/4 inch thick) and completely line the inside of the drum with it.. (double layer cardboard is fine) A hot glue gun works good to make the cardboard stick to the inside of the metal drum. The cardboard acts as an insulator because the individual (conductive) layers of your Faraday cage can not come into contact with each other.
Get the top of the drum and remove the foam rubber seal around the inside of the lip.. Make sure there is no paint (bare metal only) where the drum contacts the lid.. It is critically important that this metal to metal connection be tight.. even rust is bad.. you want the metal lid to be connected to the metal drum. The better the metal to metal connection, the better it will seal against EMP. You could even go one step further and install a bonding strap between the drum and the lid, but even with that, you want that lid tight on the drum.
The clamp ring that secures the lid to the drum should (ideally) be sandblasted clean and spray painted with a conductive paint.. Those rings are usually coated with some kind of powder coating or other protective surface finish and that’s bad because it acts as an insulator and you don’t want that.
Once your drum is all spiffy, clean, and lined with cardboard, you want to put your delicate electronics into static shielding bags. What is a static shielding bag? If you’ve ever ordered a computer hard drive, computer memory, or some other kind of computer part, you may have noticed they came wrapped in a plastic-metallic foil bag that looked and felt sort of like a Mylar bag. These are static shield bags and they come in a variety of quality levels. Put your electronics in these bags and tape the bag shut after folding it over on itself. Then put that bag into another (bigger?) bag to make a bag-in-bag.
Place into the drum, close it up tight, and you have a very nice Faraday cage. DO NOT ground the drum.. If you ground the drum incorrectly, you’re more likely to create an EMP antenna to amplify the effect rather than shield from it.
If you are handy, and you want to go the extra mile, you can get some thin aluminum and add another layer on the inside of the drum so that the cardboard is between the metal drum and the 2nd layer.. Make sure the second layer has its own lid and that the second layer of metal has no contact with the drum itself. You’ll want to put cardboard inside that second layer also.
A metal ammo can placed inside the drum would also act as a second layer.. then put a plastic bag in that and add your pre-wrapped electronics into that. The idea is that the more conductive layers, the better the shielding attenuation of the pulse.
Multiple thin layers are better than a single thicker layer..
Mutiple materials are better than a single material. For instance, a cage made of three layers of steel would not be as good as a cage made of three layers where each layer is a different metal.. (Steel, aluminum, copper)
A single layer metal 55 gallon drum with individually wrapped electronics inside their own static bags, is probably enough to protect 95% of electronics, 95% of the time (or more)…
There’s actually a guy from NASA who has a PhD in electrical engineering who specializes in this field.. I think his name is Bradley something.. He’s also a prepper and does a great job of explaining this..
Statistics: Posted by Murby — Wed Mar 01, 2017 1:10 am