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Why You Should Plant Fruit This Year!

April 19, 2017 gman 0

Why You Should Plant Fruit This Year On the Homestead Austin Martin “Homesteady Live“ Audio in player below! Going on 6 years of homesteading, I have learned some big lessons. Don’t get goats. Infrastructure is king. Don’t buy livestock on craigslist. But of all the lessons learned, one of the biggest regrets I have… Spending … Continue reading Why You Should Plant Fruit This Year!

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Fertilizers, feeding your plants!

April 12, 2017 gman 0

Fertilizers, feeding your plants! Bobby “MHP Gardener” Audio in player below! Before you plant a seed or seedling, you need to apply some fertilizer to the soil or container. What kind and how much depends on what you’re growing, and your particular style of growing. So it’s important to have a good understanding of the … Continue reading Fertilizers, feeding your plants!

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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 11, 2017 ajax727 0

I skip the jiffy pots and just use stryo coffee cups in trays , i fill them about 2/3 full so i can add soil as the grow . No lights but use cold frame 6×8 with 12 inch side with a plastic covering . I use a liquid fertilizer in the water but at low rate , I poke one big hole in the bottom for the roots , so as not to damage them when I transplant.
My tomato plants are 12 to 14 tall and bushing out . Hoping for a good crop of tomatoes this year .

Statistics: Posted by ajax727 — Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:44 pm


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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 11, 2017 ajax727 0

I skip the jiffy pots and just use stryo coffee cups in trays , i fill them about 2/3 full so i can add soil as the grow . No lights but use cold frame 6×8 with 12 inch side with a plastic covering . I use a liquid fertilizer in the water but at low rate , I poke one big hole in the bottom for the roots , so as not to damage them when I transplant.
My tomato plants are 12 to 14 tall and bushing out . Hoping for a good crop of tomatoes this year .

Statistics: Posted by ajax727 — Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:44 pm


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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 11, 2017 oldasrocks 0

I raise all my own tomato and pepper plants. Keep the grow light on 24/7 and one inch about the plants. When they are brushing the light raise it an inch. i use Jiffy pots also. After they get about 2 inches tall I transfer them into Styrofoam coffee cups with Miracle Grow soil. Same distance with the light till they get at least 6 inches tall. Don’t forget to poke holes in the bottom of the coffee cup.
Just fill the cup 1/2 full of soil. set the Jiffy pot in the middle and fill around it and up. Then I set them in plastic trays and let them suck water from the bottom. As they grow a little bigger I put a little house plant fertilizer in the water.

Statistics: Posted by oldasrocks — Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:59 pm


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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 11, 2017 oldasrocks 0

I raise all my own tomato and pepper plants. Keep the grow light on 24/7 and one inch about the plants. When they are brushing the light raise it an inch. i use Jiffy pots also. After they get about 2 inches tall I transfer them into Styrofoam coffee cups with Miracle Grow soil. Same distance with the light till they get at least 6 inches tall. Don’t forget to poke holes in the bottom of the coffee cup.
Just fill the cup 1/2 full of soil. set the Jiffy pot in the middle and fill around it and up. Then I set them in plastic trays and let them suck water from the bottom. As they grow a little bigger I put a little house plant fertilizer in the water.

Statistics: Posted by oldasrocks — Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:59 pm


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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 10, 2017 anita 0

I have had a similar problem with them getting spindly when I grow inside. Last year I transplanted outdoors in the middle of April (which is taking a big chance in Zone 6B, southeastern PA).They were about an inch or so high. I cut the bottoms off water and vinegar bottles ((1 gal size) and put them over the plants in my raised beds. If it got cold at night, I closed the cap on top, and it created a little greenhouse. That worked quite well.

In a grid-down situation, I’m going to rely on the tomato plants that volunteer all over my garden, like weeds. I grow heirlooms and the volunteers are just as productive as the regular plants. I can’t vouch for their parentage, but if I am desperate for food, I doubt I’ll care much.

Statistics: Posted by anita — Mon Apr 10, 2017 11:56 am


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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 10, 2017 Fullmoon 0

Sounds like you may be watering them too much. Once the seeds sprout and push up out of the soil you can let the soil dry out and not water every day. The soil should be damp but not soggy so the roots don’t drown. Being indoors there is less evaporation from the soil. I plant seeds in Jiffy-7 peat pods and set them in a covered plastic tray placed next to the wood stove. They don’t need much light to germinate but warm temps will help with germination and as soon as the plants pop through the soil I remove the top and set the tray on the windowsill and cut back the watering to every third day. Works every time. They sell Jiffy-7 tray kits at most gardening outlets and they last for years of re-use.

Statistics: Posted by Fullmoon — Mon Apr 10, 2017 10:37 am


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Gardening • Re: starting tomatoes from seed

April 10, 2017 Stahlrosen 0

Have you tried breezing them? Blowing on them gently, a few times a day, setting up a light fan to just move them a little, or sometimes brushing your hand across them a couple times a day will help. This will stress them a little to strengthen the young stems. The normal air current stress that they would be exposed to if planted outside, they don’t get indoors, so you have to artificially create it. Maybe that will help.

Statistics: Posted by Stahlrosen — Mon Apr 10, 2017 6:37 am


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Gardening • starting tomatoes from seed

April 10, 2017 primer 0

I need some help with a gardening question, I am currently attempting to start tomatoes from seed and as they get about 3 inches tall they become spindly and fall over however I am currently using 2 grow lights apprx. 2 inches above the plants and they are straightening out I have the seed boxes next to a window catching direct sunlight the grow lights are fine but in a grid down situation they will be worthless could I please get some suggestions? thankyou!

Statistics: Posted by primer — Sun Apr 09, 2017 9:49 pm


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Gardening • starting tomatoes from seed

April 10, 2017 primer 0

I need some help with a gardening question, I am currently attempting to start tomatoes from seed and as they get about 3 inches tall they become spindly and fall over however I am currently using 2 grow lights apprx. 2 inches above the plants and they are straightening out I have the seed boxes next to a window catching direct sunlight the grow lights are fine but in a grid down situation they will be worthless could I please get some suggestions? thankyou!

Statistics: Posted by primer — Sun Apr 09, 2017 9:49 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 26, 2017 Pedro wyoming 0

Calcium sulphate/gypsum is a slightly alkaline mineral and has a fairly high solubility rate. It’s primary use in soil is a flocculant that softens clay rich soils. It is also an amphoteric compound that is a buffer. This means that the effect on pH of soil depends on what the starting pH is. A highly alkaline soil will display a lower pH with gyp and will raise the pH of acidic soils. Some of the criteria that should be considered when using gypsum are, calcium:magnesium ratio (should be about 8:1) and total alkalinity (includes carbonate and bicarbonate content). If the calcium content is sufficiently high before application, then the soil will tend to a higher alkaline state inhibiting growth. If the acidity of the soil is due to a high bicarb content, then the gypsum will tend to form calcium carbonate which has very poor bioavailability. In either case, calcium phosphate is usually a better choice both as a buffer and a calcium donor. It also has the additional benefit of providing phosphorus which is a very necessary element for virtually all plant growth. Furthermore, calcium phosphate breaks down slowly so it is difficult to over treat soils to toxicity. Gypsum will tend to form alkali pools where water puddles occur.

I use gyp in water based drilling fluid for some of the reasons listed above and am very familiar with it’s chemical characteristics. If you need more details, PM me.

pW

Statistics: Posted by Pedro wyoming — Sun Mar 26, 2017 1:29 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 26, 2017 arkieready 0

Gypsum
CaSO4•2(H2O)
Help on Composition: Composition:Molecular Weight = 172.17 gm
Calcium 23.28 % Ca 32.57 % CaO
Hydrogen 2.34 % H 20.93 % H2O
Sulfur 18.62 % S 46.50 % SO3
Oxygen 55.76 % O
I just cut and pasted this. It’s the mineral gypsum.

First hand observation, friend had a garden in what looked to me like a rock pile, or old creek bed. He was a drywaller by trade and had TONS of scrap he tilled into his patch. They grew beautiful corn, beans and taters.
Gardenweb/forums has a discussion of pros and cons of Sheetrock in the garden.
I wonder how it would work in my very acidic, mucky clay silt. If it would lighten the structure or just glue it together. I have access to scraps.

Statistics: Posted by arkieready — Sun Mar 26, 2017 9:00 am


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 theoutback 0

Veggies and fruit trees will need more neutral soil then is likely there, between 6-7. So the ph will most likely need to be raised not
lowered. Ideally apples, peaches and pears between 6.3-6.8. Most veggies too.

Berries do need more acidic soil, raspberries and strawberries slightly lower than fruit, around 5.8-6.5, but blueberries require very low soil PH, about 4.0-5.3

I would assume the PH is low from what you described,but wood ash will raise it some. However for best results, test soil and amend for the crops you are going to grow. You can use a store bought meter, however I would really recommend contacting your local extension service. They will not only tell you PH and nutrient needs , but give you recommendations for amending. Keep in mind soil amendments take time. PH can take up to 6 months to raise or lower depending on soil and type of lime being used, so get started asap!

P.S. I am a commercial apple grower and would be happy to answer any questions regarding them in particular.

Statistics: Posted by theoutback — Fri Mar 24, 2017 3:25 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 sageprice 0

While chemically getting the PH correct does only a little to correct soil fertility. There are several sites about “reclaiming depleted soil”, almost all of them rely on green fertilizer (cover crops tilled back in). The fact that there is plenty of minerals from ash (see “slash and burn agriculture”) means that there is only a little to be added.

Statistics: Posted by sageprice — Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:18 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 rebnavy1862 0
Fullmoon wrote:
OK for you scientific types, I was talking to a corn farmer at my Battalion re-union and he told me he had to apply gypsum to his soil to get the correct ph for corn. I think he was from the state of Nebraska. I had never heard of this before, lived all over the country and don’t remember anyone applying gypsum. Which way does gyp move the ph?

Up. Here in Virginia, corn farmers apply lime in early Spring before planting.
Reb

Statistics: Posted by rebnavy1862 — Fri Mar 24, 2017 7:03 am


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 Fullmoon 0

OK for you scientific types, I was talking to a corn farmer at my Battalion re-union and he told me he had to apply gypsum to his soil to get the correct ph for corn. I think he was from the state of Nebraska. I had never heard of this before, lived all over the country and don’t remember anyone applying gypsum. Which way does gyp move the ph?

Statistics: Posted by Fullmoon — Thu Mar 23, 2017 10:30 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 Fullmoon 0

OK for you scientific types, I was talking to a corn farmer at my Battalion re-union and he told me he had to apply gypsum to his soil to get the correct ph for corn. I think he was from the state of Nebraska. I had never heard of this before, lived all over the country and don’t remember anyone applying gypsum. Which way does gyp move the ph?

Statistics: Posted by Fullmoon — Thu Mar 23, 2017 10:30 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 rebnavy1862 0
IceFire wrote:
Lime will RAISE the pH, while sulfur will lower it. Used coffee grounds are great mulch/soil amendment for plants that like acidic condition. You can frequently get used grounds from coffee shops and restaurants. As much as I hate Starbucks, they are great about saving up their used coffee grounds for people…saves them disposal costs, plus it helps with their environmental/social responsibility “creds.”

I’ve planted blackberries, raspberries, and boysenberries in alkaline soil…it did NOT bother them. In fact, they immediately tried to take over the entire area!.

I’ve gotten tons of used grounds from Starbucks. Never, ever, bought a thing there. I get a perverted kick out of carrying concealed while taking out their garbage.
Reb
And they wonder why I am smiling

Statistics: Posted by rebnavy1862 — Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:07 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 24, 2017 IceFire 0

Lime will RAISE the pH, while sulfur will lower it. Used coffee grounds are great mulch/soil amendment for plants that like acidic condition. You can frequently get used grounds from coffee shops and restaurants. As much as I hate Starbucks, they are great about saving up their used coffee grounds for people…saves them disposal costs, plus it helps with their environmental/social responsibility “creds.”

I’ve planted blackberries, raspberries, and boysenberries in alkaline soil…it did NOT bother them. In fact, they immediately tried to take over the entire area!.

Statistics: Posted by IceFire — Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:43 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 23, 2017 rebnavy1862 0
Fullmoon wrote:
Pine, fir and larch trees all love acidic soil and will grow well in it. In any deciduous forest you will find that the soil is acidic. In a hardwood forest the soil is more neutral and vegetable crops will produce well in this soil. To grow veggies or fruit trees in acidic soil you must add dolomite to lower the Ph of the soil. Plants that love acidic soil are blue berries, red raspberries, Himalayan black berries, black satin berries etc. and these can be planted directly in acidic soil without adding lime to lower the ph.

Lime raises the pH, not lower it.
Reb

Statistics: Posted by rebnavy1862 — Thu Mar 23, 2017 1:42 pm


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 23, 2017 bacpacker1513 0

Fullmoon is very accurate about acid soils and what will grow there. Blueberries love it and poduce a large crop after getting established. One veggie that like acid soil that I wasn’t aware of is potatos. They can tolerate it down to 4.5.
Get a soil test done from a lot of areas around your place and see where you are starting at. Then make a plan with facts in hand.

Statistics: Posted by bacpacker1513 — Thu Mar 23, 2017 11:18 am


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 23, 2017 Fullmoon 0

Pine, fir and larch trees all love acidic soil and will grow well in it. In any deciduous forest you will find that the soil is acidic. In a hardwood forest the soil is more neutral and vegetable crops will produce well in this soil. To grow veggies or fruit trees in acidic soil you must add dolomite to lower the Ph of the soil. Plants that love acidic soil are blue berries, red raspberries, Himalayan black berries, black satin berries etc. and these can be planted directly in acidic soil without adding lime to lower the ph.

Statistics: Posted by Fullmoon — Thu Mar 23, 2017 11:02 am


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 Cast Iron 0
oldasrocks wrote:
Does anybody have a few quarts of ambition they can loan me? It’s almost 8;30 am and I’m still sitting her drinking coffee waiting for enough energy to make breakfast. My goal today was to fill the barrels with rocks then dirt for the taters.

Tomorrow I’m picking up a load of steel I ordered for the new gazebo I need to build. Our old one died of old age.

I would Old, but I needed mine to go out to the barn this morning to thaw all the livestock water containers.
It was three degrees this morning.

Statistics: Posted by Cast Iron — Thu Mar 23, 2017 9:43 am


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 ReadyMom 0
DR1VENbyKNOWLEDGE wrote:
The one I’m trying next is the simple tomato cage….easy-peasy….you can harvest just like the container project in OP but without all the mess/hassle. (not to take anything away from OP as it’s a great option too…Looks like a fun project)

Google “Potato Tower” and click on “images” at the top of the page for all sorts of ideas for what you already have on hand.

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No worries on sharing the alternate idea! I’m looking for easy … as well as something that hubby won’t freak out over. Now, I’m seriously considering trying YOUR idea! So … you use straw INSTEAD of soil?? -k

Statistics: Posted by ReadyMom — Thu Mar 23, 2017 9:40 am


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 DR1VENbyKNOWLEDGE 0
IceFire wrote:
Years ago, when we were in PA, I grew potatoes in a couple of 50+ gallon plastic garbage cans that I’d poked a bunch of drain holes into. Filled the bottom 1/4 of the cans with soil, planted the taters, then as they grew, covered the growing plants with leaves and straw. Worked REALLY well, and harvesting was EASY!

This^^^ plus 5000.

The straw medium is one of the easiest/productive for potato’s that I’ve seen…..extremely easy/inexpensive to add and harvest and I think the productivity/yield has a lot to do with spud size as its not fighting to grow in a denser material like dirt.

This works really good even in raised beds.

The one I’m trying next is the simple tomato cage….easy-peasy….you can harvest just like the container project in OP but without all the mess/hassle. (not to take anything away from OP as it’s a great option too…Looks like a fun project)

Google “Potato Tower” and click on “images” at the top of the page for all sorts of ideas for what you already have on hand.

Image

Statistics: Posted by DR1VENbyKNOWLEDGE — Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:51 am


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 oldasrocks 0

Does anybody have a few quarts of ambition they can loan me? It’s almost 8;30 am and I’m still sitting her drinking coffee waiting for enough energy to make breakfast. My goal today was to fill the barrels with rocks then dirt for the taters.

Tomorrow I’m picking up a load of steel I ordered for the new gazebo I need to build. Our old one died of old age.

Statistics: Posted by oldasrocks — Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:31 am


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Gardening • Re: How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 23, 2017 NJMike 0

Not a farmer here, but some random suggestions…

If your focus of effort is mainly the one acre area for fruit trees, I’d suggest getting the soil tested in several spots to see what nutrient amendments are needed.

See if the local agriculture department has guidance. Example online resource:
https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nr … RDB1259629

Do a cost/benefit analysis of investment to yield.

Statistics: Posted by NJMike — Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:19 am


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Gardening • How to best take advantage of forest fire damage

March 23, 2017 Antihero 0

A forest fire 2 years ago cleared alot of space on my land. Fortunately it only got our trees and a few out buildings but left the house standing. The land was heavily forested with pine fir and larch trees before. Now it’s mostly covered in a plant called mullen and other low growing plants. The soil below the old forest floor is sand clay and small rocks 6 to 8inch rocks. I know there’s going to be a alkaline problem because of the pine trees that burnt. And the only soil place near by only sells fill dirt that comes out of old Alfalfa field. It’s very poor for growing to. We have several acres of newly open land so bringing soil in isn’t really practical anyway. I’d like to get some fruit trees and food plants going at least on a full acer and then maybe some thing half wild like blackberry and raspberrys on the rest of the open land. Any suggestions on how I should treat the soil before I start planting thus year?

Statistics: Posted by Antihero — Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:38 am


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 Cast Iron 0

The other system I have seen is using old tires.
Put one tire down,fill it with dirt and some compost. Then the potatoes, then straw. When the leaves have grown up and through, add another tire with more compost and straw.
Continue until chest height.

Then remove a tire and harvest the ones in that layer.

Do not know if there is any health hazards using old tires or not.

Statistics: Posted by Cast Iron — Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:30 am


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 IceFire 0

Years ago, when we were in PA, I grew potatoes in a couple of 50+ gallon plastic garbage cans that I’d poked a bunch of drain holes into. Filled the bottom 1/4 of the cans with soil, planted the taters, then as they grew, covered the growing plants with leaves and straw. Worked REALLY well, and harvesting was EASY!

Statistics: Posted by IceFire — Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:38 pm


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Gardening • Re: Potatoes: Another Container Gardening Idea

March 23, 2017 IceFire 0

Years ago, when we were in PA, I grew potatoes in a couple of 50+ gallon plastic garbage cans that I’d poked a bunch of drain holes into. Filled the bottom 1/4 of the cans with soil, planted the taters, then as they grew, covered the growing plants with leaves and straw. Worked REALLY well, and harvesting was EASY!

Statistics: Posted by IceFire — Wed Mar 22, 2017 7:38 pm


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Gardening for Preppers and Survivalist

March 4, 2017 gman 0

Gardening for Preppers and Survivalist Forrest & Kyle “The Prepping Academy” Audio in player below! The “The Prepping Academy” and talking all things gardening. There’s not a single good reason anyone could give for not building a seed bank. In the eventuality of a grid down scenario, or even unemployment, a seed bank could be life saving. … Continue reading Gardening for Preppers and Survivalist

The post Gardening for Preppers and Survivalist appeared first on Prepper Broadcasting |Network.

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Gardening • Re: Farming north of the 49 parallel?

February 27, 2017 Northern Freeman 0
Illini Warrior wrote:

Northern Freeman wrote:

Illini Warrior wrote:nobody knows the best gardening stock for your area than the local regional nurseries ….

http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/

put in our zip code and start your research thru catalog requests …

Up here in Northern Minnesota, I have found many of the local regional nurseries don’t care about the growing zone. Be careful of what you buy and just read label’s and do some research and talk to other locals. If there is a dollar to be made never put absolute trust in the people making that dollar.

then they aren’t much of a nursery and won’t stay in biz very long – who buys twice from a source that don’t know their own biz? ….

There is not much of a selection of local nurseries in the area. This area is a Zone 3 with a small area of Zone 2. The University of Minnesota is constantly working on fruit trees and such to grow in this area and some do good. But the few nursery’s do stock zone 4 and 5 items to sell you. Some winters are harsher than others and during the mild winters you will get some of them to grow, only to be winter killed during the harsher winters. If you don’t think people will sell you stuff that , never mind.

Statistics: Posted by Northern Freeman — Mon Feb 27, 2017 4:33 am