Articles by handyman777

Try “OpticsPlanet”, they seem to have good quality stuff. It all depends on how much you plan to spend…they have the bottom of the barrel stuff (Gen.1)-300.00 plus; up to Good quality-High end for 4000.00-5000.00 and up, for (Gen.4). I’ve shopped around for good quality optics, and they have some of the best prices.
I’m always looking for a reputable place to buy some quality optics at a decent price.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:33 am

MIA that was not a very nice thing to say::::this post has been looked at over 2200 times: by alot of people and probably kids too. all I can say is WOW!!!

“God love ’em” no body else will

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Fri May 26, 2017 12:02 pm

MIA that was not a very nice thing to say::::this post has been looked at over 2200 times: by alot of people and probably kids too. all I can say is WOW!!!

“God love ’em” no body else will

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Fri May 26, 2017 12:02 pm

If you don’t have any luck, you can always try a gun show in your area.

I’ve found some parts that were hard to find at them.

If you can get a blue print of the gun, you might be able to find that screws by other means (hardware ????) or make it yourself, just a thought.
Good Luck.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Mon May 08, 2017 11:39 am

Both guns are good choices,I would lean towards the Browning-for semi-auto. Have you looked at a Walther p-22, also a nice gun.
Like BK said, a 22 semi can give you problems and the only time this happens is when you need it the most. For a first or reliable 22, I would look at a revolver… S&W, airlite’s – in a 22 are nice but pricey.
Glad to see you back

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Wed Apr 12, 2017 6:40 am

I really have no interest in a 40 cal., 9 and 45 are my main calibers. For semi.
That said, I have been looking for a smith and wesson model 610, revolver, they shoot 10mm and can also shoot 40 cal. w/moon clips. just another one to add to the collection. Once this is acquired then maybe I’ll look for a pistol in 40 cal., to complement one another.
No rush – no hurry.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:53 am

Put a trigger lock on it and keep your (clip-mag) loaded and separate.
Just keep the key for the lock handy or use a combination trigger lock and have it off by one number so its quick and easy to open.
Most states if the the bullets and gun are separate you should be OK.
If its in your go-bag, you still have to dig it out. Its not concealed on your person.
I would try and find the rules for the different states you travel…cali. and new york???? I don’t know how they work, not good from what I hear.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:50 pm

Everyone has a good point. I have to agree with terp, for a self defense shot you don’t have time to use ANY sights…I practice with (gun empty) in the house and use a electrical outlet for my target, about 30 ft, thats about 3″ by 4″ square…point-aim and than “check my sights” to see how close I am. 90% of the time I’m dead on.

Don’t know if this makes any sense but this is my way of (point-aim) practice. Works for me.

Now if you can do this and hit a 8 1/2 X 11 piece of paper or 9″ paper plate with live rounds at 10 yards (and no sights) I would think you have a good defensive shot.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Fri Feb 24, 2017 1:33 pm

ajax727 wrote:
handyman777 thanks on the advice about the needed tools will add them to the list .
I think the first one will be with the 1×7 m4 barrel , the 1×7 should do better at longer ranges . I hope to build a nice little AR that will be as good as the competition rifles being built . The ammo I have purchased so far has been BT SP for hunting in several different brands .will have to see what it likes to eat when I get all the parts and put them together . I got all the ammo my brother had after he passed away so I have a good supply put back green black and orange tips along with hunting type ammo in 556 .

One (must have) tool I forgot to list is a vice block for your upper receiver; you will need this when you install the barrel nut and they should come with an alignment tool for the gas tube.

I’m more familiar with the rifles with the gas tube, then the piston driven models.
I googled the piston and found that its really a mixed opinion, just like everything else.
I figure if it works for me why change it….and have to keep more spare parts on hand.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Thu Feb 02, 2017 7:32 am

ajax-get the tools you need for the job…barrel wrench, torque wrench(for barrel nut)…etc. , and a good schematic for the build. Its easy and a good learning experience.Watch some you tube videos.

I’ve made special tools-“that 5/64 roll pin on the front sight for the gas tube is not easy to install”, same with that little C-clip on the rod for the dust cover door. If you have old eyes get a pair of 3X glasses.

So over time I’ve made a few tools to make the job easier.

My last “upper” build, and this was completely stripped (lots of parts)…I went “old school”-used an A2 upper (permanent carry handle-not flat top). Barrel- m4 1:7, 16″ mid-length gas block and iron sights–interesting rifle — old tech – met – new tech.
Only problem I have found with this build was the m4 feed ramps did not want to work with the A2 upper (hit and miss – feeding issue) so I used some small round jewelers files and round stones and opened up and polished the feed ramps on the receiver. some mags worked some didn’t and i want every mag to work. Seems to work on a dry run still have to check under fire.

I know some people don’t care for the (a2 style – carry handle but this was something I wanted…nice lite rifle,just over 6 lbs.

Statistics: Posted by handyman777 — Wed Feb 01, 2017 8:37 am